Talking to Muses

Docent Jason Vrooman leads our Muse programs at the Louvre, Musée d'Orsay and the Centre Pompidou. When not giving tours or working on his PhD, he can be found scouring the city for culinary delights. In between, Paris Muse had the chance to ask Jason for a few Paris insights.

What drew you to Paris to study art history?

Paris was the beginning of my love affair with art history. I took my first art history class when I was studying here during my junior year abroad. The course was on 19th-century French art, and my teacher’s enthusiasm hooked me. We used to joke that you could pick up a stone from the streets of Paris and she could tell you its history. The Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay were literally my textbooks. I “discovered” the Nabis while wandering through the Musée d’Orsay and now I’m writing my dissertation on those artists: Vuillard, Bonnard, Denis, etc. Since many of their works are here, I’ve found the perfect excuse to come back to Paris.

So, Paris and its museums fuel your scholarship. Is it ever difficult to remain focused on your work with so many cultural distractions around you?

Sometimes, yes! But the nice thing is that when I’m stressed, just spending time in a gallery can calm my nerves, whether I’m visiting “old friends” or seeing something new. And if I’m lucky, I’ll happen upon an artwork that will get me excited about my dissertation. I was exploring the drawings galleries at the Musée d’Orsay the other week while waiting for a lecture to begin, and happened upon a gorgeous Maurice Denis drawing of two men sweeping in a pastel landscape. It was strange and beautiful and will probably end up in my dissertation! Paris’s museums can be filled with wonderful surprises like that if you keep your eyes and mind open.

Tell us about some of your favorite less-frequented museums that help you recharge your art batteries.

Given that I study the Nabis, I love the Maurice Denis Museum in St-Germain-en-Laye, an easy train ride outside of Paris. The Nissim de Camondo, the Jacquemart-André, and the Cognacq-Jay are wonderful small house museums, and give you a sense of what it’s like to live with art. The Musée Guimet houses fabulous Asian art in a beautiful architectural setting. And the Gustave Moreau Museum is wonderfully odd: there’s something so intimate about flipping through drawing after [sometimes macabre] drawing in the artist’s former studio.

Let’s talk about another Paris passion of yours: food. Could you tell us about a culinary discovery or two?

Eating smoked eggplant at Frenchie. I can’t even describe how amazing it was. It had taken on a dark, smoky flavor, and almost had a meaty quality. Frenchie changes its menu seasonally—and often daily, based on what looks good at the market—so it may have been a once-in-lifetime experience.

The pork at La Régalade (and La Régalade Saint Honoré) is also to die for: a perfect balance of tender and and crispy layers. And the homemade pickles and terrine to start and Grand Marnier soufflé to finish aren’t so bad, either.

Do you have any advice for chocoholics out there, looking for the ultimate Parisian chocolate experience?

Jacques Genin is a must! Genin used to supply chocolate to the top restaurants in Paris before opening his own boutique. The staff is very friendly, and often happy to give you a sample. The chocolates come in all kinds of exotic flavors (Earl Grey, basil, grapefruit, Thai chili, and so on). The real stars for me, though, are the homemade caramels in a variety of flavors: chocolate, ginger, macadamia nut, mango, pistachio to name a few. There’s a lovely tearoom with out-of-this world pastries, as well.

For chocolate of the drinkable variety, I love the homemade hot chocolate at Le Loir dans la Théière ("the doormouse in the teapot"). It’s served in a little pitcher and is thick and rich, but without being like drinkable pudding. The vibe is very funky and a little run down, but I love it! It reminds me of a coffee shop in New York’s West Village.

Finally, the “Plénitude” chocolate cake at Pierre Hermé: a chocolate macaron covered in chocolate mousse and crispy caramel, then robed in ganache and topped with flakes of dark chocolate and sea salt. It’s chocolate overload, but somehow you can still appreciate each individual taste and texture in every bite. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

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